CSA Cooking Class 3: Summer's Bounty


Quick Pickles

Quick pickles are also known as refrigerator pickles. They are simply vegetables that are pickled in a vinegar, water, and salt (sometimes sugar, too) solution and stored in the refrigerator. Quick pickles don’t develop the deep flavor that fermented pickles do, but they also only require a few days in the brine before they can be enjoyed. Quick pickles also do not require canning when refrigerated.

Preparing Vegetables for Pickling

  • Thinly slice: cucumbers, summer squash, ginger, red onion

  • Cut into spears: carrots, cucumbers

  • Peel: carrots

  • Blanch: green beans (optional, but helps preserve their color)

Brine Basics

For quick pickles, a basic brine is equal parts vinegar and water, but you can adjust the ratio to your preference. Any basic vinegar is game — white vinegar, apple cider, white wine, and rice vinegar all work well. You can use these vinegars alone or in combination. Steer clear of aged or concentrated vinegars like balsamic or malt vinegar for pickling

Flavoring Quick Pickles

  • Fresh herbs: dill, thyme, oregano, and rosemary hold up well

  • Dried herbs: thyme, dill, rosemary, oregano, or majoram

  • Garlic cloves: smashed for mild garlic flavor, or sliced for stronger garlic flavor

  • Fresh ginger: peeled and thinly sliced

  • Whole spices: mustard seed, coriander, peppercorns, red pepper flakes

  • Ground spices: turmeric or smoked paprika are great for both color and flavor

How To Quick Pickle Any Vegetable

YIELD

Makes 2 pint jars

PREP TIME

20 minutes

COOK TIME

5 minutes

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 pound fresh vegetables, such as cucumbers, carrots, green beans, summer squash, or cherry tomatoes

  • 2 sprigs fresh herbs, such as thyme, dill, or rosemary (optional)

  • 1 to 2 teaspoons whole spices, such as black peppercorns, coriander, or mustard seeds (optional)

  • 1 teaspoon dried herbs or ground spices (optional)

  • 2 cloves garlic, smashed or sliced (optional)

  • 1 cup vinegar, such as white, apple cider, or rice

  • 1 cup water

  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt, or 2 teaspoons pickling salt

  • 1 tablespoon granulated sugar (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS

  • Prepare the jars. Wash 2 wide-mouth pint jars, lids, and rings in warm, soapy water and rinse well. Set aside to dry, or dry completely by hand.

  • Prepare the vegetables. Wash and dry the vegetables. Peel the carrots. Trim the end of beans. Cut vegetables into desired shapes and sizes.

  • Add the flavorings. Divide the herbs, spices, or garlic you are using between the jars.

  • Add the vegetables. Pack the vegetables into the jars, making sure there is a 1/2 inch of space from the rim of the jar to the tops of the vegetables. Pack them in as tightly as you can without smashing.

  • Make the brine. Place the vinegar, water, salt, and sugar (if using) in a small saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Pour the brine over the vegetables, filling each jar to within 1/2 inch of the top. You might not use all the brine.

  • Remove air bubbles. Gently tap the jars against the counter a few times to remove all the air bubbles. Top off with more brine if necessary.

  • Seal the jars. Place the lids on the jars and screw on the rings until tight.

  • Cool and refrigerate. Let the jars cool to room temperature. Store the pickles in the refrigerator. The pickles will improve with flavor as they age — try to wait at least 48 hours before cracking them open.

RECIPE NOTES

Storage: These pickles are not canned. They can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 months. If you process and can the jars, they can be stored at room temperature unopened.

Panzanella salad (Tuscan Bread Salad) Recipe

Dried bread and salted tomatoes make this the best bread salad of the season.

When the temperature dial hits over 100°F in backyard it means only one thing: salad for dinner.

This classic bread and tomato salad manages to be fresh and summery, but still hearty enough to eat as lunch or a light supper.

Panzanella salad has a reputation as a Tuscan dish, bread salads are not uncommon elsewhere in the Mediterranean. Italians want you to know one thing: panzanella is not a tomato salad with bread; it's a bread salad flavored with vegetables.

Bread has been a staple food in the Mediterranean region for millennia, and ancient bread didn't have preservatives, which meant people had to find creative ways to use less-than-perfect leftovers.

The panzanella salad is now an essential recipe of summer for anyone with access to good quality tomatoes. August is the best time to use tomatoes. Use a mix of cherry tomatoes, heirloom tomatoes and regular fresh, garden tomatoes to make this off the charts summer staple.

Let’s talk about bread: Whether you're making bread crumbs, stuffing, or panzanella, most bread-based recipes will call for stale bread. But what does that really mean? Well when it's left sitting out, bread will certainly lose moisture. Use bread that has lost its moisture and is a bit tough. The other option is to toast chunky pieces of bread before using it. Either way, the goal is for the crunchy bread to absorb the dressing and tomato juices without getting soggy. Follow along to make a life altering salad.

Classic Tomato Panzanella

Serves 6

2 pounds mixed ripe tomatoes, cut into bite-size pieces

2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt, plus more for seasoning (use half as much if using table salt)

1 loaf ciabatta or rustic sourdough bread, cut into 1 1/2–inch cubes (about 6 cups bread cubes)

10 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 small shallot, minced (about 2 tablespoons)

2 medium cloves garlic, minced (about 2 teaspoons)

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar or red wine vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup packed basil leaves, roughly chopped

 

Directions

. Place chopped tomatoes in a colander set over a bowl and season with 2 teaspoons kosher salt. Toss to coat. Set aside at room temperature to drain, tossing occasionally, while you toast the bread. Drain for a minimum of 15 minutes.

. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350°F and adjust rack to center position. In a large bowl, toss bread cubes with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Bake about 15 minutes, until crisp and firm but not browned. Remove from oven and let cool.

Remove colander with tomatoes from bowl with tomato juice. Place colander with tomatoes in sink. Add shallot, garlic, mustard, and vinegar to bowl with tomato juice. Whisking constantly, drizzle in remaining 1/2 cup olive oil. Season dressing to taste with salt and pepper.

Combine toasted bread, tomatoes, and dressing in a large bowl. Add basil leaves. Toss everything to coat and season with salt and pepper. Let rest 30 minutes before serving, tossing occasionally until the dressing is absorbed by the bread.

Corn Fritters

The photos show me making a half-recipe. We got 12 to 16 fritters from it, just enough for our family with a few leftovers. Serve these with a simple green salad, or as a side for a heartier meal such as grilled chicken, sausage, or pork chops. They’re also good with an egg on top for breakfast. See additional flavor suggestions above.

  • 6 ears of corn (about 3 cups corn)

  • 4 scallions, both white and greens finely chopped

  • 1/2 cup chopped herbs of your choice (I used chives)

  • About 1 cup (6 ounces) grated sharp cheddar

  • 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

  • Freshly ground black pepper

  • 4 large eggs

  • 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus 2 more tablespoons if needed

  • Olive or a neutral oil for frying (I used safflower)

Shuck corn and stand the first stalk in a large bowl. Use a sharp knife to cut the kernels from the corn into the bowl, then run the back of your knife up and down the stalk to release as much “milk” as possible into the bowl. Repeat with remaining ears. It’s okay if you get a little more or a little less than 3 cups of corn.

Add scallions, herbs, cheese, and many grinds of black pepper and stir to evenly combine. Taste for seasoning; I usually find I needed more salt and pepper. Add the eggs and use a fork or spoon to stir until they’re all broken up and evenly coat the corn mixture. Add 1 cup of flour and stir to throughly coat. My mixture at this point (especially with bi-color corn) looked precisely like egg salad, to give you an idea of what you’re looking for: mostly kernels and just a little visible batter to bind it. A scoop of it should hold its shape unless pressed down; if yours does not, add the remaining flour. (For reference, I needed it.)

Heat 2 to 3 tablespoons oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Once hot and shimmering, add your first scoop of corn fritter batter and press it gently to flatten it. (I used a #40 scoop, which holds a little less than 2 tablespoons. Tinier fritters are easier to manage.) Corn fritters cook quickly so keep an eye on them. When the underside is a deep golden brown, flip and cook to the same color on the second side. Drain on a paper towel, sprinkling on more salt. When it’s cool enough to try, taste and adjust the seasonings of the remaining batter if needed.

(Deborah Madison advises that if your fritter isn’t holding to add another egg and 1/3 cup flour to give it more “glue” but I didn’t find this necessary.)

Cook remaining fritters in the same manner, adding more oil as needed. Try to get them to the table before finishing them.

Do ahead: Fritters keep well in the fridge for up to 3 days, and freeze well too. I like to defrost and re-toast them in a 350 degree oven.